When we launched our first fabrics with recycled spandex in 2019, we met in advance with Uwe Schmidt, who is Managing Director at Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe, one of the most important addresses for elastic stretch fibers and everything to do with polymers.
All our Honeycomb fabrics contain Recycled Spandex called ROICA™ EF from Asahi Kasei, a material that is not an absolute novelty, but about which you still hear and read surprisingly little. Uwe Schmidt tells us that behind the idea of producing recycled spandex is first of all a matter of the heart: "We started recycling more than 10 years ago in order to pursue a zero-waste strategy and also out of the conviction of being able to keep single-variety raw materials as raw materials as well." ROICA™ EF, the name of the recycled elastane, is thus the result of true pioneering work.
Unlike polyester, for example, spandex cannot be melted down, but must be polymerized before it can be spun again. The raw material sources for this are in-house scraps, but also imports of scraps and returns from sister plants within ROICA™. In the past, these scraps were incinerated, but now they are given a second life - they go from waste to raw material. It is currently manufactured in Germany and has been certified for five years according to the Global Recycled Standard as well as the Ökotex Standard 100. Despite the international nature of the company, Uwe Schmidt believes it is important to serve customers as regionally as possible and to keep delivery routes short, even though an expansion of ROICA™ EF in Asia is being considered.
He is convinced that you always have to think in larger contexts and concepts, and for him it is always a matter of weighing things up and choosing the most suitable option for the end product - "Concept Garment" is what Schmidt calls it very succinctly. The Global Recycled Standard, which we talked about earlier, covers very different recycled content. In the case of the spandex we use for our Honeycomb, it's at least 50%.
By using recycled raw material, the Global Warming Potential, or greenhouse effect contribution, drops to 65%. The Global Recycled Standard 4, which is relevant for us, also ensures that the criteria of the ILO are observed and controlled - including, for example, freedom of assembly, the prohibition of child labor and fair wages. In addition, as few petroleum-based raw materials as possible are used. At the end of our conversation, we leave with the good feeling that we have found a partner here who does his thing with a lot of expertise and passion - and will not tire of breaking new ground in the near future.
What exactly is ROICA™ EF?
ROICA™ EF spandex is a special type of spandex fiber that stands out for its sustainability. This fiber is made from recycled polyurethane, which means it is derived from old, unused materials that would otherwise end up in landfills. It is a very flexible and stretchy fiber that is perfect for making elastic materials like those used in the apparel industry. The fiber offers high elasticity and has excellent recovery, which means that the material retains its shape even after prolonged wear.
In addition, ROICA™ EF spandex is also skin-friendly and hypoallergenic. It does not cause irritation or allergies on the skin, which makes it an ideal choice for people with sensitive skin.
Due to its sustainability and excellent technical properties, ROICA™ EF spandex is increasingly used in the apparel industry. It is used in a wide range of products, such as sportswear, underwear, swimwear and even medical applications.
Overall, ROICA™ EF spandex is an innovative and sustainable fiber that provides an excellent alternative for manufacturers of elastic materials.
How is ROICA™ EF manufactured?
The production of ROICA™ EF spandex begins with the collection of polyurethane waste, which can come from a variety of sources. This waste is then cleaned, shredded and broken down into small pieces.
Next, the polyurethane is transformed in a chemical process called hydrolysis. In this process, the polyurethane is broken down into its components, particularly polyols and diisocyanates, with the addition of water. These components are then converted in a further process into a new polymer called ROICA™ EF elastane.
The production of ROICA™ EF elastane requires careful monitoring and control to ensure that the final product meets the required technical properties and quality standards. Attention is also paid to its sustainability by making the production process as environmentally friendly as possible and optimizing the use of raw materials and energy.
ROICA™ EF spandex is a good example of a sustainable and innovative fiber made from waste, while meeting the requirements for the technical and aesthetic properties of spandex.
