Please introduce yourself briefly.

I'm Nele Gerlach, 33 years old, and founder of the fair-fashion label isarti. My studio and home are in Münster, where I also grew up. After graduating from high school, I trained as a bespoke tailor and then studied fashion design at the Mönchengladbach School of Design. I graduated as a state-certified fashion designer in 2015.

Your path has also led you into the international couture scene. What did you do there?

After my studies, I went to Italy. After a three-month internship at the fashion label Morfosis in Rome, I worked for two years in Valentino Garavani's haute couture atelier. There, I worked as a couture seamstress and collaborated with a large team on wedding dresses, red carpet looks, and the couture collections for the shows in Paris.

When was isarti founded and what prompted its founding?

I founded isarti in Münster in 2021. Being self-employed had long been a goal of mine. It's important to me to focus on the craft of tailoring and the appreciation of clothing, and to produce as locally and sustainably as possible. During my studies, I intensively researched the problematic conditions within the textile industry and decided that I didn't want my work to be part of this system. With isarti, I can share my values ​​and my perspective on the fashion industry.

Do you sell your pieces primarily online or offline?

Currently, I mainly sell my work through markets, fairs, and exhibitions, such as in pop-up stores. Direct contact with customers is very helpful in communicating my products and my working methods. In the long term, I would like to expand my online shop and increase my online presence.

How do you perceive the sustainable fashion scene in Münster?

Münster isn't a classic fashion capital, but it has strong purchasing power and an openness to good design and fair, locally produced goods – as long as it doesn't get too experimental. There are a few retailers focusing on fair fashion, and secondhand options are also growing. However, sustainable fashion here is often limited to basics. I see great potential in offering high fashion and more exclusive designs sustainably as well. Fair fashion should be fun and not impose any stylistic limitations.

What structural problems do you see in the fashion industry?

The relocation of the textile industry to low-wage countries has led to a significant loss of appreciation for clothing. Clothes are cheap and constantly available, while the work behind them has become invisible. Rebuilding this awareness will take a long time.

What challenges do you, as a designer, constantly face?

Visibility is a major challenge. As a solo entrepreneur, I handle product development, manufacturing, marketing, and sales myself. Social media often overwhelms me, while I find personal interaction at trade fairs and exhibitions much easier. There, I get direct feedback and have genuine conversations.

What role do materials play in your work?

Sourcing materials is particularly challenging for me. There are many options in the basics category, but I lack innovative and exclusive fabrics that allow me creative freedom. Therefore, I often start with the material and develop my designs based on it. I find deadstock fabrics especially exciting: even if they weren't always produced sustainably, they prevent waste and open up a wide variety of unique materials.

What does sustainability mean to you – professionally and personally?

Sustainability isn't a precisely defined term for me. On a personal level, it means living a lifestyle that protects the environment, promotes social justice, and considers future generations. For me, this primarily means using resources consciously and constantly re-evaluating my needs.

How exactly do you implement this attitude at isarti?

With on-demand production, I want to encourage conscious purchasing decisions and create genuine anticipation for a garment. This increases appreciation and longevity. In addition, I offer a small selection of upcycled one-of-a-kind pieces – such as accessories made from leftover fabrics or upgraded secondhand items – for people who would like to take something home immediately.